Bread in Japan: The Fascinating Story Behind the World's Fluffiest Loaves
The surprising journey of a European import to a Japanese culinary staple
Ever since I was a kid I’ve been obsessed with Asian culture, the flavors, the spices, the technology, the language.
As a child growing up in the 90s Japanese pop culture really influenced my life. I think it may have even been a catalyst for my love of tech and an ongoing fascination with Asian food, specifically Japanese, Korean, and Chinese. Every time I travel, I make it a habit to visit every Japantown, Chinatown, or Koreatown when I’m in a city. Ask my husband, he already knows my itinerary before I even create it, and it mostly revolves around food.
When I was a university student in New York City, I remember trying Asian baked goods and noticing a stark difference from western baked goods. The bread seemed lighter, fluffier, and less sweet. So of course I dove into research to understand how bread made its entrance into Asia, and in this article I’ll be exploring the fascinating history of bread in Japan.
History of bread in Japan
Bread is extremely popular in Japan. It is so popular, that the Japanese population spends a larger percentage of their income on bread as opposed to rice. Though rice is an essential part of Japanese culture, bread has taken the country by storm.
Bread made its way to Japan by way of Portuguese influence. The Portuguese missionaries brought pão in the 16th century to Japan which later became known as pan in Japan from the original Latin word panis. It’s interesting because pan though etymologically Latin, is both a Japanese and Spanish word that means bread. After bread entered Japan, it didn’t automatically become a staple. It wasn’t until three centuries later that bread would flourish during the Opium Wars in the 19th century. It became an easy way to feed soldiers and a convenient snack on the field.
Bread really flourished in Japan after the Second World War. After facing a shortage of rice due to the war, the U.S. military supplied Japan with wheat and lard as a way to prevent starvation. This led to wheat becoming a staple of the Japanese diet. Not only did the production of bread increase but so did wheat-based products like gyoza, udon, and ramen. Today you’ll find Japanese bakeries across cities and villages in Japan and all around the world.
Distinguishing factors of Japanese bread
So what makes Japanese bread, Japanese? Let’s talk about the method that gives bread products in Japan a pillowy and soft texture - yudane. In contrast to western baked goods, which are usually dense and chewy, Japanese baked goods are light and airy. This is not to say that you can’t find western baked goods in Japan, you certainly can, but the traditional Japanese bread, especially shokupan (Hokkaido milk bread), tends to have a softer and lighter crumb.
Yudane, also called tangzhong or yukone, is a one to one roux made with flour and water (or milk), cooked until it becomes thick like a paste. This paste is then added to the dough which produces a soft tender texture and enhances moisture retention. It also helps break down the starches in the flour, gelatinizes it, and extends the shelf life of the bread. Usually the yudane will be about 5%-20% of the baker’s percentage. The result is a melt in your mouth type of bread that is fluffy, light, and has a mild sweetness to it. Words cannot do the fluffiness of the bread justice. You have to taste it. When you take a bite into western bread you expect a crunchy crust and a salty relatively drier crumb. Japanese bread is the opposite. It usually has a subtle sweetness and has a soft tender crumb due to the the yudane method and the inclusion of fat and sugar.
Popular types of bread in Japanese bakeries
I would say, without a doubt, that shokupan is probably the most popular type of Japanese bread, it’s also one of my favorites. Here is a list of some of the most popular breads you can find in Japanese bakeries:
Shokupan: a sandwich loaf but has a soft milky flavor with a very pillowy crumb and is often eaten for breakfast in Japan.
Anpan: a tender sweet roll filled with adzuki (red bean) paste
Melon pan: a sweet soft bread that looks like a melon but is covered with a crispy cookie crust
Koppe pan: a versatile soft bread resembling a hot dog with a subtle flavor
Cream pan: a soft bun filled with a cream custard
Kare pan: a curry stuffed bread dough covered in panko and fried to perfection
Yakisoba pan: a koppe pan stuffed with yakisoba noodles
The cultural significance of Japanese bread
Bread in Japan is not only a staple but a cultural sensation. I would even go as far as to say that Japanese bread culture is one of the most innovative I’ve ever seen. There are few places you can find such a wide array of bread fillings like at a Japanese bakery. From sweet to savory, your entire palate becomes a playground for a world of flavors. Although bread is not a traditional Japanese food, it is an aspect of Japanese culture where creativity, artistry, and passion flourish.
If you’ve never tried Japanese bread, I would invite you to start now. Look for a local Japanese bakery near your closest city and try the shokupan. You can eat it by itself, add jam and butter, make a sandwich or employ the genius of the Japanese mind and create your own recipe.
Places I would recommend are Takahachi Bakery in New York City or Tous Les Jours since they have various locations across the United States. Tous Les Jours is a Korean franchise but they sell a variety of Japanese-style breads.
Have you ever had Japanese bread? What did it feel and taste like? Let me know in the comments below!
Oh man, I visited Japan in 2019 and the pastries/treats haunt me to this day! I had no idea about the Portuguese origins or the post-war wheat connection, I remember reading that tempura also has origins in Portugal (could be mistaken). In any case, both Portugal and Japan have incredible bread on offer.
This brought back so many memories, thanks for the great read. Also, 10/10 agree about Takahachi Bakery in NYC, the matcha crepe is my go-to, such a treat!
SHOKUPAN!!!! YES!!!