Why Italian Pasta Uses Durum Wheat: The History and Culture of Semolina Flour
Ever wondered what makes gives pasta it's elastic texture and yellow tone? The reason is the flour used, semolina. Semolina flour is the result of milling durum wheat. Durum wheat is one of the six major wheat classes in the United States and an even larger array of wheat varieties in Italy, many of which are no longer being cultivated. The two major wheat varieties in Italy are grano duro (hard wheat or durum wheat) and grano tenero (soft wheat or common wheat).
History and origins of durum wheat
Let's start by defining what durum wheat is. Durum means "hard" in Latin, so essentially durum wheat is hard wheat. The reason for this being that the endosperm (the inner part of the wheat berry which is used for milling) is very dense and resistant to milling, thereby producing a very coarse flour - semolina. Durum wheat is essentially a type of wheat variety and is considered an ancient grain since it goes back thousands of years to the fertile crescent area where modern civilizations arose. It made its way to Italy through ancient trade routes connecting the Middle East to the Mediterranean. Although many claim Marco Polo brought noodles from Asia in the 13th century, archaeological evidence points to tools made by the Etruscans in the 4th century BC for making pasta. Though we can't be sure when or who invented noodles first, it's clear that pasta is the culinary legacy of Italy with a long-standing tradition and a cultural reverence that has elevated it from simple sustenance to a work of art.
Durum wheat is extremely special to Italian cuisine. It's so special that there is an official law in Italy declaring that all dried pasta for sale in Italy must be made with semolina flour and water without any additives Presidential Decree No. 187.
Italian regions and varieties
A big reason why pasta is so regulated in Italy is because of the production of durum wheat in southern Italy. In order to continue fostering the Italian economy, these regulations guarantee a continued demand for locally grown wheat, thereby supporting the Italian agricultural sector and southern Italian farmers. Another reason is simply because Italy, as is also the case in Spain and France, is very proud and protective of it's cultural traditions.
Most of Italy's durum wheat is grown in southern Italy - Puglia, Sicily, and Basilicata. The mediterranean is the perfect climate for durum wheat cultivation. It thrives in hot days and cool nights with direct sun exposure. It also needs fertile well drained soil, hence the popularity of durum wheat in semi-arid regions like the Middle East. The three major ancient varietals of Italian durum wheat used for artisanal pasta are Senatore Cappelli and the Sicilian Tumminia and Russello. These three ancient varietals of durum wheat have a high protein content which makes them a perfect choice for pasta.
From grain to pasta
So what specifically makes durum wheat, or semolina flour, a better choice of flour for making pasta? It has a high protein and gluten content and is extremely elastic. The hardiness of the kernel contributes to maintaining the integrity of the structure of the pasta. If it would be made from a softer kernel, it would usually have a lower protein and gluten content which would make it easier to disintegrate. It also has that distinctive yellowish hue that makes the pasta look fresh and salivating. All of these characteristics are crucial for the "al dente" texture that pasta is so often associated with.
Although semolina flour is regulated for the sale of dry pasta in Italy, it also makes amazing fresh pasta like orecchiette and gnocchi. It's coarse nature renders a dough that has a stronger gluten development and therefore becomes more manageable. Semolina flour has a nutty and earthy sweet flavor. It is also used to make polenta, breads like Pane Siciliano and Altamura, and a variety of other dishes.
Where to buy
If you live in Italy then you will no doubt have a vast variety of semolina flours to choose from but if you live in the United States I would suggest getting this organic semolina flour from Eataly.
I live in Austin, TX and somehow it was extremely difficult to find organic semolina flour. Word of advice, make sure it's semolina and not cornmeal (which is much easier to find and looks very similar). I remember when I was in Italy, Mulino Marino being considered a high quality organic flour that still uses traditional stone milling.
Traditional stone milling, a method used to grind flour by pressing two stones together (one stationary and one rotating), preserves many of the nutrients of the flour and is highly esteemed in artisanal baking. When I buy flour, I always try to search for stone milled options.
Have you ever tried using semolina flour to make your own pasta? Or maybe bread? What has been your experience? I'd love to read your thoughts in the comments.
I buy all my flour from Central Milling. I checked and they sell two types of Duram flour. Let us know what you think.
This article is really interesting! I'm from Volterra in Tuscany, and in my family tradition, pasta is made with 50% white flour and 50% durum wheat semolina. This is because, compared to pasta from other regions like Emilia-Romagna, ours is more elastic and holds its shape better when cooked. We also tend to make it thicker in general.